Showing posts with label Travelogue. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travelogue. Show all posts

A birding trip to Kokrebellur had been on my mind, ever since I heard of this exotic village where migratory birds flock in year after year during this season. So last weekend, we were off to Kokrebellur, 80kms from Bangalore, zooming off through Bangalore-Mysore highway at sunrise.

Spotbilled Pelicans, Painted Storks, Black Ibis breeding on the tamarind trees of this village is a sight which left us spellbound. We were completely bowled over by the sight of these huge birds, the size of which would easily put the local birds to shame. These enormous birds swarming in flocks on the top of tamarind trees, noisily flapping their wings, building nests, briskly flying in and out carrying small branches in their beaks made this place resemble a crowded street, which in reality is a peaceful village. In comparison to these avian species, we birdwatchers looked like jobless jacks hanging out here merely watching this flurry of activity and flashing our cameras.
 
Spotbilled Pelicans


Painted Stork
We were here at the right time and lucky to have been able to watch this nest building activity. And it is curious that these birds chose to come only to this village. It must have to do with the existence of numerous lakes and the Shimsha river flowing here, which provides for their food, mainly fish. It is also curious that they only chose the Tamarind trees to breed, while there are other bigger, sturdier trees like Peepul trees nearby. Both Pelicans and Painted Storks are seen co-existing on the same trees.These birds will now lay eggs, hatch and rear their off springs before they finally fly back to their place, usually by the month of May.

The villagers here never seem to trouble these birds, and look upon their arrival every year as sign of good luck and prosperity. If these avian visitors don’t arrive, villagers believe their crops will be lost that year . It seems the underlying fact behind this popular belief is that these bird droppings are a rich in phosphorous and potassium and act as good manure for crops.

To reach this haven, we took a turn from the highway and drove 12 kms inside. The barren landscape suddenly gave way to a beautiful green stretch, with fields of paddy, sugarcane and raagi fringed with cluster of coconut trees. Sericulture seemed to be quite popular here and we passed several silk farms on the way. At times we had to drive over stack of hay, the villagers had spread out on the road to get sun dried.
On the way was Tailur Kere lake, painted in golden honey by glistening rays of rising sun and the silhouette of numerous birds wading in the water sketched quite a contrast against the backdrop. Watched the Pelicans, Cormorants, a bevy of Blackwing Stilts and other unidentified duck-like birds wading here.

Tailur Kere
Flight of the Painted Stork
A canal feeding from the lake runs through paddy fields on the opposite side of the road. Village women were seen washing clothes along the canal sides. Spotted few green bee-eater birds here tirelessly darting from one electric line to another.

Later we drove towards the bridge over Shimsha river. We stopped here and sitting inside the car gorged on a quick breakfast of bread, jam and juice. The river brink was peppered with a generous sprinkle of lovely white waterlilies. Common Coot was seen gracefully wading between these lilies, randomly pecking on leaves and disappearing at times behind tall blades of grass. How lucky is it to be dreamily swimming between these beautiful water lilies all day long.

River Shimsha
Common Coot
An old man with his family embarked on the river bank with a huge flock of sheep, then to our utter surprise and delight started bathing the sheep. The reluctant sheep vehemently protested, bleating and wriggling under the old man’s strong arms, as he dragged each one of them into the water, giving them a good dip and briskly scrubbed them with his palm.



We then decided to call it a day, pleased at having spent an otherwise lazy Sunday morning, birdwatching in this beautiful village.

 I craved to visit Sikkim for two prime reasons. One was for the beauty of Himalayas and other for it’s rich Buddhist culture. And when I traveled there in December, Sikkim did not disappoint me with it’s quaint, laid back mountainous towns and colourful life.  Everything about Sikkim is vibrant . People generally wear loud colourful clothes and their houses are painted in bright hues with flower pots adorning most balconies. Even their places of worship, the monasteries, with it’s intricate paintings are a treat to the eyes. For the curious traveler, the people of this mountainous state seem to be celebrating their life. A stroll through MG Marg at Gangtok, bustling with winter carnival celebrations added to my conviction on this place. There was a vivacious crowd cheering to the ethnic dance performed on the pedestrian's only street. I also wonder if it was because of off-season, I was able to enjoy the beauty of this place more.




 We started our journey from Bagdogra to Pelling, traversing the misty tea gardens, dense hilly forests, following the long Teesta River meandering around the valleys. Wherever we went we could see Teesta, mysteriously green,  it’s sandy banks caressed by dense vegetation, catering to the adventurous traveler who takes to rafting through it’s cold rapid waters.

 The monasteries of Sikkim are a must visit. The Pemayangtse monastery at Pelling is situated on hill top, a muddy path leading up to the monastery flanked by numerous poles of prayer flags fluttering in the wind. Monk kids in maroon rob and shaved heads were running around the courtyard, enthusiastically playing a game of cricket. As we entered the sanctum, a prayer session was in progress. Rhythmic sound of drums and soothing chants echoed the room, where we saw huge striking   Buddhist statues,  the eight incarnations of Guru Padmasambava.  The beautiful paintings on the wall had started wearing off. Old scriptures, musical instruments,  masks & utensils from olden days were showcased. On the third floor was a seven-tiered intricately carved & painted sculpture of Sanghthokpalri, the heavenly palace of Guru Rimpoche.



Lingdum Monastery


  At Gangtok, we visited Ranka/Lingdum monastery. The towering architecture of the colourfully painted monastery, set against the green hills is a sight to look out for. The paintings on the walls, depicting Buddhist ways of life are quite detailed and painstakingly done.  There’s a long lane of prayer wheels leading to the entrance of monastery, each cylindrical wheel inscribed with the mantra Om Mani Padme Hum. These prayer wheels are supposed to be spun by turning the handle beneath, as the devotees offer their prayer.  Watching the Chaam dance performed by the monks was in my wish list, but did not materialize since it happens only during auspicious occasions. It is a masked and costumed dance performed by the monks. When I saw the next date for Chaam dance, my heart sank. It was 5 days away and we would be out of Sikkim by then. Monks are very friendly folks and patiently answer our inquisitive queries regarding monastery. I see lot of black cats around, obviously their pets. Seeing these black felines, the first thing that came to my mind was the cover picture of the book  Dalai Lama’s Cat. I have never read this book, but somehow the picture I had seen suddenly struck me.

From our hotel at Pelling we could catch glimpses of Kanchenjunga, mysteriously veiled behind the clouds. Mt. Kanchenjunga the highest peak of India, the third highest in the world is worshiped by people of Sikkim & Darjeeling. December being unbearably cold and visibility poor, we missed on majestic views of Kanchenjunga. I would definitely love to come back here during Oct-Nov when the skies are clearer. Usually by 2 pm the temperature drops and sun would have come down by 4 pm. After that there is nothing much to do in the hills, except some street shopping. We then rush back to our hotel yearning for steaming cups of soup and platter full of hot momos accompanied by fiery chilli sauce.  On the streets it is quite common to see the local folks huddled in groups around an open fire place, chatting and warming themselves, not a care in the world as if they could spend their whole day here relaxed.




To be continued....

Rajasthan had long been in my list of dream travel destinations and this Dussehra holidays the trip just happened. Jaipur is five hours journey from Delhi. We (me, M, AP & parents) started off early morning from Noida where my sis stays. It was not the best time to visit Jaipur. Well, for that matter it was not a bad time either. The weather forecast reported was at 36 degrees and Rajasthan was in news for all bad reasons. The Indian Army had accidentally dropped bomb at Bikaner and there was sand storm in Jaiselmer. Well, but nothing could deter our trip to the Pink City.



Rajasthan of my imagination was a dry treeless arid dessert. In fact I was quite surprised to see the sprawling hills covered with shrubs all around the city. Jaipur is a colourful city. People wear bright clothes, the men in turbans and the women in colourful saris modestly covering their face. We walked through the City Palace complex. On both sides of the street were shops selling puppets, ethnic jewellery, shoes, elaborately embroidered dresses,and the famous blue pottery. We reached Hawa Mahal. This palace is shaped like Lord Krishna's crown and has an array of countless windows on all sides, which accounts for the heavy breeze inside and hence the name. During the Rajput reign, these windows gave the women folk of the palace a view of the street life outside. In AP's words, the lovesick princesses waited at these windows for their prince to come and whisk them off on gallant horses :)

Next we decided to check in at our Hotel Umaid Mahal. We had a tough time locating the hotel, because whenever we asked for direction, we were pointed to a different route. Wherever we stopped, there were eager tour guides waiting to pounce, offering to accompany us to our destination. It looked as if Jaipur is teeming with travel guides.

And Umaid Mahal was very much worth all the trouble. It far exceeded my wildest imagination of a hotel. As soon as you enter the Mahal, you get transformed to a magical palatial world. Every inch of the wall and ceiling were covered with exuberant mural paintings. Oil paintings of old Rajput empire adorned the walls. The intricately carved silver furniture, wooden sculptures and grand chandeliers that hung from the ceiling coupled with the golden glow of the lamps added to it's magnificence. I would highly recommend this hotel to anybody visiting Jaipur.

After having a late lunch, we proceeded to Chowki Dhani which is a modelled Rajasthani village. It is a rustic hamlet comprising of mud huts with thatched roofs, panchayat and forest with Rajasthani tribal. It has a carnival with performance by folk dancers, puppet show, tight rope walking, magicians, fortune tellers, potter dancers, camel and bullock cart rides. You can sit comfortably on coir cots in the huts, sip camel-milk tea from earthen pots and smoke the hookahs. Btw, camel milk tastes yuck. There were craft bazaars for shopping and I bought a beautiful Rajasthani jootha and a jewel box. There were entertainment stalls, where M tried his hands on shooting with bow and arrows and AP at shooting with a gun. Well,the mention of Chowki Dhani is incomplete without the elaborate full course Rajasthani dinner served on leaf plates. I almost lost count of the number of dishes on my overflowing platter. I guess it was around 20-25 dishes. I couldn't comprehend the ingredients of most of the dishes, which left me at awe about how much varied are the cuisines when you travel from one part of India to another!!! Truly incredible!!!

Since we went to Chowki Dhani during Dussehra season, I for the first time witnessed the tradition of "Burning the Ravan". A gigantic effigy of Ravan was erected on the open court supported by ropes on all sides. We were told that the ceremony will start at 9pm. There was a huge crowd gathered. Soon all the performers of Chowki Dhani- the folk dancers,acrobats, magicians and tribal folks came together singing, dancing and blowing trumpets. They danced around the roaring Ravan and made merry.. Crackers exploded and fireworks illuminated the night sky. Ravana had chains of crackers and fireworks enclosing his body. After the merrymaking, it was set to fire. The illumination and cacophony that followed temporarily rendered us blind and deaf. I was really excited to watch this event despite the amount of air and sound pollution it created. After this, we left Chowki Dhani and returned to the hotel.

Next day after having complimentary buffet breakfast from hotel, we set off to indulge in some shopping extravaganza. Jaipur is famous for quilts/rajais. So we bought two of those along with blue pottery for our future home :) Also got some bandhini dress materials and Jaipuri bangles for cousins and friends.

It was in the scorching hot mid day sun that we went to see Jal Mahal, as a result of which I got a bad splitting headache. From there, we went on to see Jaigarh fort which is situated on hill-top. The fort must have well protected the city from the enemies during the reign of Mugals. Jaigarh fort gives a good view of the entire Jaipur city. There is a museum out there showcasing all the weapons, armour and shields used during war. I was surprised to see many of them exactly replicated in the movie 'Jodha Akbar', when I viewed it last weekend. As we were leaving the fort, I spotted a few hoopoe birds with their beautiful crowns spread out and a couple of peacocks in the wild. I guess the bird watcher in me has not died yet. I was excited to spot the hoopoe birds, though it's quite common in this part of India. Hubby dear on seeing the peacocks stopped the vehicle, ran and vanished off into the wild with his camera.

We left Jaipur by sunset, when the setting sun painted the Pink City into a dark hue of red.

It was March 8 th– Women’s day. We were on our way to Yercaud hill station, which is near to Salem town and popularly know as “poor man’s Ootty”. Yercaud is situated in the Servarayan range of hills in the Eastern Ghats.

We were a pack of seven. Me, Raintree, GG, Pavi, Vj, Maiden, Desai. We were having good time in the vehicle chitchatting, munching snacks, threatening to puke on each other ;) and singing.

Start of the journey was li'l disappointing. When our vehicle started climbing the hair pin curves, I found the place not as exciting as I imagined. It didn’t look that appealing in the mid afternoon heat with the dried up grasses and dull green surroundings. As we bent the 20th hair pin curve things were getting lots better. The place looked green and dense. The weather was pleasantly cool. Around 1 pm, we reached ‘Silver Resort’, where we checked into a luxurious cottage over looking the big Yercaud lake.


We had lunch at Shevaroy’s hotel and then went on to see Pagoda/ Pyramid point. It’s a windy hilltop point, which gives a good view of the surrounding Shevaroy hills. There is a Rama Temple here, which is surrounded by four pagodas, which are rocks piled into pyramid shapes by the tribal people.

The other attractions of Yercaud are the Ladies seat and Gent’s Seat points. These are view points with natural rock formations that resemble seats. On the way to ladies seat, we stopped at a local tea stall, with mouth-watering bajjis & pakoras. We sat outside and relaxed while tea walla prepared us hot piping tea.

At the ladies seat, we were standing on a tower overlooking the Salem town. Raintree and i found out an an echo point inside the tower, where we stood howling and listening intently to the reverberations. We continued this for a while, until to our embarrassment, we saw some local crowd gathered around us staring blatantly.


We hiked to Gent’s seat point, where we planned to watch the sunset. The evening sun casted long shadows on the ground and soon we were playing puppet dance & tribal dance with our shadows. It was fun trying to stamp on each other’s shadows. We sat on the rocks in tranquility for almost an hour, silently watching the sun sinking down the horizon. The evening sky was misty and the setting sun created multiple halos around it. Did a few photographic acrobats by clicking snaps of “catching the sun in the palm” & "open mouthed and trying to swallow the tiny fiery ball."


After sunset we went back to ladies seat, since we heard the point was magnificent at night. From the hill top, as I looked down I was dazed seeing the entire Salem town brilliantly lighted up in the dark. We could see the silhouette of the dark hills and the flood lights of an occasional vehicle passing the ghat roads. It looked as if the star studded sky was down and we were floating far above it. As we stood there watching, suddenly an entire dark area lighted up. To our surprise, it was the street lights turning on. As if a million fireflies have alighted on it suddenly...

Night had settled in and it was li'l windy and chilled. We went back to our cottage, wrapped ourself in jackets and proceeded for dinner at Shevaroys. Later, we went out for a night stroll. After hiking for sometime, we reached the Emarald lake. We sat down on it’s banks and started stargazing. Sky was enchanting and we were chitchatting on all possible topics ranging from global warming to childhood stories. Life seems to have come to a standstill. Meanwhile, Pavi and Desai were arguing about the location of pole star in the sky and Raintree helping us find the shape of hunter constellation.....It was fun making out the hunter's belt and pointed arrows in the star spangled sky.

Next day at sharp 6 am, the early bird GG came and knocked at our door.. We girls groaned, turned over and slept for another half an hour ;) By 7, the half sleepy team was ready for the early morning trek to Killiyur waterfalls which was around 3kms from our place. Coffee plantations and silver oak trees grew all over the place. The early morning hike was very refreshing. Raintree was busy adorning her hair with all the wild flowers collected on the way. Maiden with the pretty scarf wrapped around her hair looked like a kashmiri girl. Pavi puffing and panting, with her life-supporting inhaler in one hand had to literally hauled up by heroic VJ ;) As we trekked we could hear the gurgle of the water. It relieved us because we didn't expect much water during summer season.

We splashed each other and got drenched in the falls. The water was icy cold and it actually hurt to have the piercing chill water splashed on you. I climbed up to the possible highest point of the waterfalls along with the guys. Yeahhh..Mission conquered..We clicked snaps and then climbed down to continue with the splashing game..The guys were busy climbing trees and posing for snaps. Later, after energizing ourself with bananas and energy drinks we started our trek back. GG had in fact collected all the plastic bottles and kits thrown around the waterfalls by careless tourists. Kudos to him and his "giving back to nature policy."

The next target was Yercaud lake, where we did pedal boating. We were in two boats, and hence started competing and trying to hit each other’s boats.

Soon it was time to check out of our cottages. Our final destination was Shervarayan cave-temple, which was the highest point on Yercaud hills.. We had to literally crawl inside the dark rocky tunnel for the darshan, where the deities of god Sheravaryan & goddess Kaveri were worshipped. We all sat huddled inside the dark cave, while the pujari narrated us history of the 3000 year old temple. He explained how the original deities were kept further down the tunnel which ultimately lead to Cauvery river 1km ahead..

Thus after two days on the hill top, we started our journey back to Bangalore...

In a place far away from the maddening crowd, set in the tranquil interiors of a quaint little village in Kolar district, enclosed with hills on all sides and dotted with green fields of corn & vegetables.. This is the place where we packed off for an outward bound training program from office. There were no proper roads connecting this place & during the last half an hour of the bumpy, jerky journey , we didn't even come across a single bmtc bus. Muddy tracks led us to the camp where we stayed, in the tents..it seemed to be so far away from civilization...

It was a unique experience living in the tent & having campfire dinner every night. In the nights, we had friendly visitors inside our tent in the forms of beetles & centipedes, who found their way inside our cozy blankets for a nap.. Once in the middle of night, it rained very heavily & our tent got almost flooded.Well, but as usual nothing could hinder my beauty sleep.

In the evenings after the training, we were free birds. And the team was out in fields playing football, cricket & volley ball. I tried my hands at playing cricket. The word 'tried playing' will be an understatement, considering the way I excelled. Because the only time my bat hit the ball, it went for a direct catch :( I guess, it's time to start our all girls team :D One evening, a few of us enthusiasts, decided to explore the wild country side. We trekked to a nearby hill. While trekking up, at a high altitude, we were taken up by surprise when we hit upon a plain, which was segmented into cultivated vegetable fields . Yes, a farm right in the middle of the hill, in the middle of nowhere. I guess it is the concept of 'step-farming'. And when we hit the top, the sun had almost set at the horizon.The panoramic view of the fields & hills was breathtaking in the mellowing evening light. Next day,we went for yet another expedition. We conquered another adjacent hill & hoisted our flag there (ok..not flag, but our office logoed cap propped up on a stick).

And the best part of camping was saved up for the last. It was rafting. We had to build our own rafts using bamboo poles, ropes & lifebuoys. Yes, and we built our dilapidated looking Noah's Ark , by tying the bamboo poles together using figure-of-eight-knot & appropriately fitting the lifebuoys to keep the raft afloat. Phew.. So I mastered the art of tying the figure-of-eight-knot so well that, now I can even tie a ferocious bull safely to the pole. So here is our hard work...














And what to say, we rafted in the lake in our Titanic.. No..It was not a tragic Titanic!!!! We the proud sailors rowed hard to reach our destination at the other end of the lake. And in the middle of the lake, the sailors momentarily lost their sense of direction, abandoned their oars & started splashing the muddy water on each other. Thankfully, we had life jackets on & hence I am still alive to write this crap post.











With this ended our three days of frolic & adventure....

Last Saturday, I attended my friend's wedding mentioned in my last post. It turned out to be a sort of get together, meeting up with my old buddies. We 5 of us planned for a trip to Poonjar that evening. It had been 4 years back when we girls went to the same place and I remember it was one of our best trips. Poonjar with its enchanting rolling hills, dense dark rubber estates, gurgling streams and cascading waterfalls. Nature was simply at its best there.

Because of the sudden hartal in Alappuzha district, we had to take a train to Kottayam and from there 2 exhausting bus journeys before we could reach Poonjar. By the time it started raining heavily. Rain gods seemed to have no mercy on us and the sky was pouring out threateningly. We feared rain will play spoilsport on our trip. By the time the bus was climbing the long winding uphill roads of Poonjar, there was power failure. The whole village was enveloped in coal black except for the hurricane lanterns that flickered here and there. The heavy rains had caused some damage to the BSNL tower and we were literally cut out from the rest of the world. What a way to start our journey!!!!

At last we reached our destination. My friends uncle and his daughter were there waiting for us. And it was a long walk in the dark to reach their home, guided only by a torch light. We had to climb through the rocky path , cross a stream and a bridge to reach home. A worried aunty was there waiting for us (it was almost 8 pm. We were supposed to reach there by 6).There was nothing much we could do inside the house because of power failure. So we sat under the candle light sipping hot tea and munching chips, talking to our hosts . Aunty was an energetic sporty lady and soon we were plotting wild crazy plans. The power cut could not tone down our high spirits. We decided this was the best time to take bath in the stream. Soon, under aunty's leadership the girls army( including her daughter S) marched down the rocky tracks to hit upon the stream. The water was icy cold after the rain. S was a girl used to all the wild ways of nature and soon we found her dragging us and unsuspectingly pushing us into under-water pits. With a sinking feeling I found myself drowning & gasping. And for a brief moment, I had a glimpse of the happy life I may never live to see :-) With zero knowledge on swimming, I felt it was a wonderful creative game for people who are thinking of ending their life. But soon we turned crazy and was enjoying the drowning-game. We screamed and our voice echoing in the dark almost brought the whole village down there. In a way, it was good that there was no power.

After dinner, we were sitting out in the veranda. The first thing I noticed on reaching the house was the swing. It has been terribly long since I did swinging. And there I was swinging to my hearts content into the cloudy night sky. We played anthakshari. It was past midnight and the aunty surprised us by coming with glasses of black tea . She announced, "to keep you devils awake and croaking." Here was a lady who encouraged our craziness!!!! After we finished our activities and decided to hit the bed it was 3 am.

I had to literally pry open my eyes next day morning at 6. We went to explore the country side in broad day light. The streams looked beautiful set against the foggy misty hills . Our next destination was waterfalls in the nearby hill. There we trekked down the rocky tracks enclosed by dense dark rubber plantation.


The best part about the waterfalls was that, we had it all to our own. The waterfall was surrounded by rubber plantations belonging to uncle and hence was a secluded place inaccessible to public. It was our very own kingdom. Only the chirping birds & the dragon flies hovering over the water gave us company.We sat under the waterfalls, with the heavy splash of water drumming on our heads and almost intoxicating us. We splashed around the pool , tried the balancing-floating-act on water ,and even danced under the falls. Later we were sitting on the top of a boulder, drying ourselves in the sun & chatting lazily, when S came and started pushing us one by one. From the precarious edge of the rock, I fell, was momentarily air borne and then sank down into the stream below. It was an exciting adventurous feeling. We tried it several times later

We spent almost half a day there. And then it was time to return. We had a train to catch at 6 pm , to take us back from this heavenly abode to the corporate jungle

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